While I was in Torino the first time, with Mark, I went to see the Marc Chagall exhibition in the GAM. It was fantastic, lots of really good pieces and very well laid out and lit. They're very keen on audioguides here in Italy, there are rarely notices written next to paintings about where and when they were painted etc. like you see in London. The audioguides are quite high-tech, they are like tiny mobile phones and you dial the number of the picture you are interested in. Sometimes they say something interesting, and sometimes they talk a lot of guff, but it's interesting to hear the Italian English all the same.

I'm unfortunately nowhere near the level of being able to take the Italian audioguide. I was barely able to negotiate for a cashcard in the bank yesterday - again I was astonished by just how bad a deal the banks give you here. You have to pay 10 Euros a year just to *have* a cashcard! Of course if you should use any other bank in Italy, you can expect to pay a hefty fee for getting your own damn money out. Come back NatWest, all is forgiven. Well not all actually, but some things are now forgiven.